:root{
  --paper:#F6F1E7; --card:#FFFDF8; --ink:#23201C; --soft:#6B645A; --line:#E3DACB;
  --accent:#A8322A; --accent-soft:#F3E3D6;
  --serif:"Fraunces","Noto Serif Thai",Georgia,serif;
  --sans:"Anuphan","Noto Sans Thai",system-ui,sans-serif;
  --zh:"Noto Sans SC","PingFang SC","Microsoft YaHei",sans-serif;
}
*,*::before,*::after{box-sizing:border-box}
html{scroll-behavior:smooth}
body{margin:0;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font-family:var(--sans);font-size:17px;line-height:1.7;-webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased}
img{max-width:100%;display:block}
a{color:inherit}
.wrap{max-width:780px;margin:0 auto;padding:0 20px}
h1,h2,h3{font-family:var(--serif);font-weight:600;line-height:1.2;margin:0;letter-spacing:-.01em}
h2{font-size:clamp(26px,5vw,34px);margin:64px 0 6px}
h2 small{display:block;font-family:var(--sans);font-size:14px;font-weight:400;color:var(--soft);letter-spacing:0;margin-top:6px}
.kicker{font-size:13px;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--accent);font-weight:600}
.zh{font-family:var(--zh)}
.muted{color:var(--soft)}

/* top bar */
.top{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;padding:18px 20px;max-width:1100px;margin:0 auto;font-size:14px}
.top a{text-decoration:none}
.top .brand{font-family:var(--serif);font-style:italic;font-size:18px}

/* hero */
.hero{position:relative;min-height:72vh;display:flex;align-items:flex-end;color:#fff;overflow:hidden}
.hero img{position:absolute;inset:0;width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover}
.hero::after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;background:linear-gradient(180deg,rgba(0,0,0,.05) 30%,rgba(0,0,0,.65))}
.hero .wrap{position:relative;z-index:1;padding-bottom:48px;width:100%}
.hero h1{font-size:clamp(46px,11vw,92px);font-style:italic;font-weight:500}
.hero .kicker{color:#fff;opacity:.9}
.hero p{margin:8px 0 0;font-size:18px;max-width:560px}
.credit{font-size:11px;color:var(--soft)}
.hero .credit{position:absolute;right:12px;top:12px;z-index:1;color:rgba(255,255,255,.75)}
.credit a{text-decoration:none}

/* stat strip */
.stats{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit,minmax(130px,1fr));gap:1px;background:var(--line);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:14px;overflow:hidden;margin:-36px 0 0;position:relative;z-index:2}
.stats div{background:var(--card);padding:14px 16px}
.stats b{display:block;font-family:var(--serif);font-size:24px;font-weight:600}
.stats span{font-size:13px;color:var(--soft)}

/* toolbar */
.tools{display:flex;gap:8px;flex-wrap:wrap;margin:22px 0 0}
.btn{font:inherit;font-size:14px;border:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--card);color:var(--ink);border-radius:999px;padding:7px 14px;cursor:pointer;text-decoration:none}
.btn[aria-pressed="true"]{background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper);border-color:var(--ink)}

/* days */
.day{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:16px;margin:16px 0;overflow:hidden}
.day>summary{list-style:none;cursor:pointer;display:block}
.day>summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}
.day .ph{aspect-ratio:16/7;object-fit:cover;width:100%}
.day .head{padding:16px 18px 18px;display:grid;grid-template-columns:auto 1fr auto;gap:14px;align-items:start}
.day .n{font-family:var(--serif);font-style:italic;font-size:40px;line-height:1;color:var(--accent)}
.day .date{font-size:13px;color:var(--soft)}
.day .place{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:22px;font-weight:600;line-height:1.25}
.day .gist{margin:4px 0 0}
.day .stay{margin:6px 0 0;font-size:13px;color:var(--soft)}
.day .chev{font-size:20px;color:var(--soft);transition:transform .2s}
.day[open] .chev{transform:rotate(180deg)}
.day .credit{padding:0 18px}
.sched{padding:4px 18px 18px;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}
.row{display:grid;grid-template-columns:96px 1fr;gap:12px;padding:10px 0;border-bottom:1px dashed var(--line)}
.row:last-of-type{border-bottom:0}
.t{font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums;color:var(--accent);font-weight:600;font-size:14px}
.what{font-size:16px}
.what small{display:block;color:var(--soft);font-size:14px;line-height:1.55}
.tip{margin:10px 0 0;padding:10px 14px;background:var(--accent-soft);border-radius:10px;font-size:15px}
.summit .n{color:#B8862B}

/* youtube cards */
.yt-row{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(220px,1fr));gap:14px;margin:14px 0}
.yt{display:block;text-decoration:none;background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:12px;overflow:hidden;transition:transform .15s}
.yt:hover{transform:translateY(-2px)}
.yt .im{position:relative;aspect-ratio:16/9;background:#ddd}
.yt .im img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover}
.yt .im::after{content:"▶";position:absolute;left:10px;bottom:10px;width:34px;height:34px;border-radius:50%;background:rgba(0,0,0,.6);color:#fff;display:grid;place-items:center;font-size:13px}
.yt .cap{padding:10px 12px;font-size:14px;line-height:1.45}
.yt .cap b{display:block;font-size:16px}
.sched .yt{max-width:320px;margin-top:12px}

/* food */
.eat{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(220px,1fr));gap:14px}
.city{margin-top:28px}
.city h3{font-size:22px}
.city .where{color:var(--soft);font-size:15px;margin:2px 0 10px}
.dish{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:12px 0 0}
.dish li{padding:8px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.dish li:last-child{border-bottom:0}
a.zh,.copy{text-decoration:underline dotted;text-underline-offset:3px;cursor:pointer}
.callout{background:var(--accent-soft);border-radius:16px;padding:18px 20px;margin:18px 0}

/* tables */
.card{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:16px;padding:18px;margin:14px 0}
.scroll{overflow-x:auto}
table{border-collapse:collapse;width:100%;min-width:520px;font-size:15px}
th,td{text-align:left;padding:10px 8px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);vertical-align:top}
th{font-size:13px;color:var(--soft);font-weight:500}
.r{text-align:right;font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums;white-space:nowrap}
.sub{display:block;font-size:13px;color:var(--soft)}
tfoot td{font-weight:700;border-bottom:0}
.total{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:baseline;background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper);border-radius:16px;padding:18px 20px;margin-top:14px}
.total b{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:34px;font-weight:600}
.leg{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr auto 1fr;align-items:center;gap:8px;padding:8px 0}
.leg .c{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:30px}
.leg .m{text-align:center;font-size:13px;color:var(--soft)}
.leg .rt{text-align:right}

/* checklist */
.check{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0}
.check li{display:flex;gap:12px;padding:10px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.check li:last-child{border-bottom:0}
.check input{width:20px;height:20px;accent-color:var(--accent);margin-top:4px;flex:none}
.check small{display:block;color:var(--soft);font-size:14px}

/* wishlist (sketch pages) */
.wish{display:grid;gap:18px;margin-top:18px}
.wish article{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:16px;overflow:hidden}
.wish article .body{padding:16px 18px}
.wish h3{font-size:22px}
.draft{display:inline-block;font-size:13px;border:1px dashed var(--accent);color:var(--accent);border-radius:999px;padding:3px 12px;margin-top:14px}

footer{margin:80px 0 40px;font-size:13px;color:var(--soft)}
footer a{color:var(--soft)}
.toast{position:fixed;left:50%;bottom:24px;transform:translateX(-50%) translateY(20px);background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper);padding:8px 16px;border-radius:999px;font-size:14px;opacity:0;transition:.2s;pointer-events:none;z-index:9}
.toast.on{opacity:1;transform:translateX(-50%)}

/* field mode: hide photos & videos for quick use on the road */
body.field .day .ph,body.field .day .credit,body.field .yt,body.field .hero,body.field .profile,body.field .stats{display:none}
body.field .sched{border-top:0}

@media (max-width:560px){
  body{font-size:16px}
  .row{grid-template-columns:76px 1fr}
  .day .head{grid-template-columns:auto 1fr;}
  .day .chev{display:none}
  .stats{margin-top:-28px}
}
@media (prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){html{scroll-behavior:auto}.yt,.day .chev{transition:none}}